With a total of 3,108 exhibitors from 23 countries and regions spread 13 halls of Shanghai New International Expo Centre in Pudong held in late October was indeed the largest of Intertextile Apparel Fabrics show ever recorded in its 17 year history. Exhibitors increased by 25% - 18% for overseas exhibitors and 27% for local Chinese, over last year’s event and gross area with three more halls,  totaled 150,000 sqm.

Trend table of Japan Creation.

This largest textile show in the world attracted over 62,000 buyers, a 10% increase – a spectacular performance in the midst of economic uncertainty world wide. The only bright spot is Asia; China in particular, was the reason for such strong exhibitor and visitor turnouts. Interestingly, visitors from Europe also increased from France, the UK, the Netherlands, Russia, Germany and Sweden and several new visiting countries, Andorra, Luxembourg, Slovenia, were recorded.

Three halls on the west wing of the fairground housed the international exhibitors. Ten country pavilions were erected and the strongest turnout was from Taiwan with 154 exhibitors in two groupings, followed by Korea with 102, Italy 100, Japan 57, Germany 25, Thailand 24, India 12, Spain, the UK and Indonesia 10 each. In addition, there were 4 fiber company satellites composed of mill partners of Lenzing (57), Invista (26), Hyosung (10) and Cotton Council International/Cotton Incorporated (6). The Europe zone where exhibitors from Europe were concentrated, worked well for the visitors.  The remaining areas of these 3 halls showcased exhibitors from fibers to fabric by product types such as cotton, manmade, knitted, yarns/fibers, lingerie/swimwear, linen/ramie, wool, functional, lace/embroidery, and mixed.

Products made from Li Peng's Libolon RePET.

The remaining 10 halls were occupied by local Chinese exhibitors and booths were laid out by broad fabric categories of denim, casualwear, suiting, shirting, functional wear & sportswear, ladieswear, and accessories. Denim and lingerie & swimwear fabrics enjoyed their own zone with its own display galleries. Accessories expanded to 2 halls had an independent a trend display.

ITSAF has become a platform for seminars of numerous topics related to textile industry. A total of 41 seminar sessions were presented over two days under 6 broad topics: Design & Trends, Market information & Business Strategies, Legal issues, Technology & Solutions, Certification & Testing and Product Presentations. These were well attended which meant that the topics selected were appropriate to the needs.

Trend directions for A/W 2012/13 with Truthful Wisdom as the overview developed by Doneger Creative Services from New York of the Interstoff Directions Committee interpreted in four directions: Metamorphic Magic, Nature’s Truth, Artisanal Aspiration, Convivial! Maximal!. Colors are a heart-swinging palette, allied to the touch of a comforting and mindful taste, layered with cool yet natural shades. Fabrics China, had its own trend forum in the domestic hall with an Original Healing philosophy in 4 directions: Salute to Tradition, Abstemious Life, Emotional Technology and Beyond the World. In addition, Japan, Spain, Korea and Thailand pavilions had their own fabric trend areas.

Thai textile Trend fabric display.

New idea for future event

The single aim of the Show organizers, Messe Frankfurt Hong Kong and CCPIT, is to provide the users an efficient and quality experience at the Show. To this end, each year they hone and improve the booth arrangement and show program. A new concept will be introduced in the next Intertextile event to take place in Beijing in March 2012 – a Salon Europe Premium Hall. “We want to create different levels of quality of fabric areas so as to help buyers find the best of the best easily”, said Wendy Wen, director of trade fairs Messe Frankfurt Hong Kong. The hall will have a unique identity and an independent Fashion Trend Forum, to be designed by a French architect. Only a selective number of exhibitors from Europe will be invited to join and visitor entry will be strictly by invitation only. Watch out for the Premium Hall for quality European fabrics.

Profitability & Sustainability go hand in hand

Eco and sustainability are no longer just a mantra but is becoming a standard in the industry. This eco directive is so strong that Messe Frankfurt together with Ecotextile News co-organized a day long conference, “Planet Textiles Conference – Sustainable Textile Sourcing Strategies”, during Intertextile in a hotel nearby, following the success of the conference held at Interstoff Asia Essential 2010. One message delivered by the speakers was loud and clear - Sustainability is a matter of survival.

Keynote speaker Dr John Cheh, vice chairman & CEO of Esquel Group on the onset declared, “Sustainability must equal profitability. If you cannot survive, you cannot practice sustainability. Sustainability is a commitment to the environment and to society”. Through comprehensive execution of waste saving projects, Esquel was able to reduce energy consumption by 40% and both water and chemical dyestuff by 50% from 2005 to 2010. He also added, “Being green does not require a huge investment.”

Denim from Seazon.

From the West

Asia, specifically China, is the bright economic spot. Exhibitors from the West came for the sole purpose of entering and penetrating the China market as business in the US and the EU are showing signs of financial difficulty. Some have been at it longer reaping success, which attracted many others to follow. All were pleased with the positive response they received. Matteo Dal Pra, MD of Marzotto International Trading (Shanghai) described the Show as “crazy busy”.

Spain is well known for their fast fashion business success internationally. The textile industry would also like to follow the footsteps to fame of its apparel industry. The Spanish Pavilion made its debut lead by Texfor, the association for Spanish Textiles & Accessories together with ICEX, the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade. The banner read “Let Spain Dress you Up”. Many came for the first time and all were thrilled with the positive results. Obradors showed fabrics for children and young girls, Textil Settam offered fancy Jacquard, silk prints and embroidered fabrics for women casual and formal wear. Antex brought along special effect polyester yarns in brilliant shades for high fashion.

The German Pavilion is a permanent fixture at Intertextile. “The German exhibitors have enjoyed good success every time because China is still a growing market”, said Wolfgang Klopfer from IVGT which co-organized the pavilion. Regulars at the show included KBC, Gutermann, Girmes, Transfertex, Ploucquet, to name a few. Freudenberg Vilene came to promote its new generation of elastic fibre based interlining targeted for menswear for quality, sustainability and cost efficiency. Dralon of Germany in acrylic fibres, is focused on the dry spun market which is more exclusive than wet spun. “We came to promote our brand in China and have identified a number of potential business partners to work with, especially in the underwear business.

The Italian participation at Intertextile has always been the strongest from Europe. The Chinese are mesmerized by Italy fashion and Italian fabrics for its quality and style. “The Chinese market is getting more sophisticated,” observed Davide Tricerri, export manager of Fratelli Tallia de Delfino. “Only two years ago the Chinese customers were still asking for fabrics that suit the Chinese style, now they are asking for a more international look”, he said. He was very satisfied with the show as he met many buyers, especially Chinese buyers. All their fabrics have natural stretch are finished with a slight water repellency that can tolerate mist and light rain. Special product called 24K Gold, patent protected, uses 24K gold threads in the pinstripe suiting fabric made of 155 u pure wool (250gm/m).

Ms Beryl Gibson, spokesperson of the British group organized by UK Fashion & Textile Association and supported by the UK Trade & Investment was very satisfied. “China is a growing market and this is the most comprehensive textile fair”, she said. The companies that came were all of the top end market.  Some are companies have a very long history, e.g. Abraham Moon & Sons was established in 1837, Dormeuil in 1842, and Moxon in 1556 which had served 20 monarchs since Queen Mary’s reign.

From the East

In spite of flooding in Thailand, companies of the Thai Pavilion were all present led by the Department of Export Promotion. The aim of Thai exhibitors is different from those from Europe. “We are at this Show not focus on sales to China but to attract and receive foreign buyers especially those from Europe,” said Mr Teeraparp, MD of Jong Patana in shirting, suiting, jacket and pant cotton fabrics. “We can offer something different from  the Chinese products”, said Phongsak Assakul, MD of Bangkok Weaving Mills which offers cotton apparel fabrics of a wide range of variety - poplin, twill, canvas, denim, and even hometextiles.

Think Taiwan for Textiles.

Taiwan pavilion, with 154 exhibitors, was the biggest in the international halls. Fashion plus Function and Think Taiwan for Textiles in sustainability, reliability and innovation are well known slogans of Taiwan Textile Federation, the government agency which promotes Taiwan textiles. Fabrics on display were group in three segments: Fashion, function and eco friendly.

Li Peng’s Libolon brand of recycled polyester and nylon is eco-friendly through and through. They displayed a rack of clothing and backpacks made with Libolon’s RePET recycled polyester. Na Ya Plastic also offered eco-friendly green fibers. Its Normal Pressure Dyeable Polyester Fiber, EcoDye, can be dyed at a lower temperature from 130 C to 100C due to a change in the molecular structure of the polyester. New Wide is very serious about eco products, sustainable textiles and low carbon operation. They showed eco-focused Cooltran, Cocona, Flycool and Sorona fabrics, in cotton and viscose, linen and silk and in future, nylon as well. The Cooltran process is a transfer print in cool dye bath with stunningly sharp results. It is gentle to the environment as little dyestuff comes off the fabric and energy saving.

The second largest pavilion was from Korea with 102 exhibitors. They too had a trend platform which attracted crowds of visitors, throughout the exhibition period, especially those from China as Korean textiles are perceived as creativity and innovative, plus value for the money. Already well rooted in China, many companies have factory operations in China.

For example, first time participant, Frog of Korea is in polyester, silk, cotton, rayon, and viscose fabrics, dyed, screen printed and hand painted, all made in China since 2002. As metallics are in vogue, they displayed silk metallic in several colour ways, print on Jacquard and foil print on silk rayon which is very subtle and soft. Donglim Veltex, a leading producer of high pile faux fur knit fabrics has its production totally in Qingdao China. They showed imitation fur of all kinds from mink, fox, beaver, raccoon, to chinchilla in all colours and styles – embossed, sheared, sculptured and bonded with suede and even in washable and non-flammable.

The third largest group from Asia, the Japan Pavilion with 33 companies supported by Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO) and Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFW) had its own trend forum always with an eco focus. Japanese exhibitors are innovative especially in their fibers. Asahi Kasei claims to be the first company to develop dyeable spandex - Roica DS, which results in very solid color with good color fastness. Yarn dyed offers more flexibility than dope dyed which makes color matching easier.

The theme of Toyobo is Warm, Cool and Light for nylon, polyester and acrylic products. New is Bulkiner, a 0.5 dtex acrylic yarn when dyed becomes bulky and thick trapping air, hence warmer, softer, fluffier and lighter. Firacis, a compound staple yarn with super long cotton wrapped with polyester filament yarn, for super absorbency that can keep the skin dry and cool while Erena is light and low pilling.

Lightweight and high performance focused Toray continues to show their collection of ultra microfiber and Entrant DF 2.5 in different patterns for the underside of garment. Dermizax has a better stretch with PU lamination, Artistic EX lightweight fabric 40g/m2 or less for down jacket, Airtastic TS offers 30% stretch while Airtastic Stretch is 10-15% stretch, Fieldsensors dries in minutes and Chamsitic in chenille yarn of 100% polyester microfiber is very light and easy to care, and Act Wind, a knit fabric for outdoorwear.

Two exhibitors from India made a significant presence at Intertextile, one is in fiber and the other in yarn both part of the Birla Group. Birla Cellulose promoted its pulp and fiber business offering Birla Viscose, Birla Modal and Birla Excel and Birla Spunshade. “The Birla brand is already well known in the West, we now wish to promote the brand in China” said Amit Phutane, deputy GM of branding. “Our products are better for the environment, better for the skin and better for fashion”, he added. The fibre factories are located in India, Indonesia, China and Thailand.

ABY, is the overseas spinning business of Birla Group with manufacturing in Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines. It is a strong player in the global cellulosic yarn trade. First time at Intertextile they offered cellulose, bamboo, cotton, polyester, acrylic and Lycra yarns in a range of products such as Softura, Flexo, Denim, Style, Colorlast, and Protek as well as its Classic Spun Yarn, Acrylic Dyed, Mélange, Niche blends and Techno. Already selling to 70 countries they now wish to expand to China.

From China and Hong Kong

China’s 12^th Five year plan announced in March this year was focused on three major points: Innovation & technology upgrade; improvement on the environment and reducing carbon footprint; strengthen the domestic market and continue to create jobs. The textile industry has been diligently following these three directives. China’s textile companies that are exported oriented have turned their attention somewhat to the domestic market to mitigate the reducing export business due to debt loan difficulties in the West.

The Chinese government gave Sunshine of Jiangsu a World Brand title due to their excellent quality. This time they displayed 300s and 500s fine count wool fabrics. The 300/2ply is 100% wool and the 500/2ply is 100% merino wool in super 210 count in a subtle print. Extremely fine, it was to demonstrate their technological capability rather than for commercial production. Domestic sales are increasing while export has been reducing. They aim to reach a 50:50 balance.

Shandong Ruyi cooperated with an Italian company with the brand Nogara DiRY for sales in China for the tailor made service. New is 100% wool extra fine 300s/2 ply 240gam/metre using Ruyi Technology. In the Royal Ruyi Room housed Ruyi’s finest, 99% cashmere anti-static in 230gm/metre. They are able to produce this en mass for the European market. They also showed 100% cashmere scarves for gifts.

One of the world’s largest and leading suppliers of mélange yarn, Huafu, expressed its F/W 2012/13 theme under the theme of “Pirates of the Caribbean”. The products are fashionable, environmentally friendly and technology oriented. They showed a series made of recycled material as well as Tencel and semi worsted.

Denim fabrics, always in fashion, took up half a hall. Seazon is domestic market oriented serving the local fashion brands and some of the finished garments are exported. As denim wear has a relatively short history in China, the locals are very receptive to its fashion development and are bold to embrace all styles.

In the past 12 months, Fountain Set of Hong Kong saw business consolidation due to a weakening US market. “Fountain Set is an eco minded manufacturer. Our Sri Lanka plant is a zero landfill operation. Everything is reused, reprocessed or no waste created, after all, sustainability is about by using less resources and waste less, a total holistic way of doing business,” Simon Weston, director of marketing said.

Central Textiles of Hong Kong, a partner mill of Cotton Council International showed denim fabrics for jeanswear under the categories of Earth, Lite, Urbanite, Luxury goods, Spectra, Heritage, Sexy Style Denim, Superfit with more stretch for women’s wear using Lycra Dual FX (T400 + Lycra) in two way stretch. Partner mill of Invista, Sunnikorn Knitters of Hong Kong, adopts many of Invista products such as Lycra, Thermolite, Coolmax, Tactel, and the new Lycra Dual FX. “Green at Heart” was their slogan. Export oriented focused on Europe’s and Asia’s mid and high end market, they felt the impact of the economic downturn in the West.

YYK Zippers expressed in fashion.

Accessories

Accessory plays a key role in apparel fashion and it is getting more and more important. The Accessories Hall at Intertextile doubled in size to take up two halls this year with its own show catalog and trend display area researched by VIFF Style. Original Healing was the theme of the trend in four stories: Salute Tradition, Temperate Life, Emotional Technology and Beyond World. The overseas exhibitor zone centralized the foreign exhibitors while the rest of the exhibitors were arranged by product types: interlinings, linings, tape & belts, hangers, zippers and fasteners, buttons, waistbands, labels & hangtags, lace & embroideries and appliqués/sequins/beads/rhinestones and other miscellaneous items.

Esquel Accessories & Packaging, a subsidiary of the Esquel Group, displayed buttons as well as labels, cuff links, trims, tapes, collar bands, patches, brand seal, hangtags, hangers,  poly-bags, packaging, and shopping bags, all Oekotex certified. Some of the items can be recycled and some are made from recycled factory waste material.

“China’s own apparel brands are upgrading in quality and paying attention to the quality of thread, therefore we are at the right time to be in China,” said Barbara Binder head of global marketing of Amman Threads. Business is growing since the plant opening in Yancheng China in April 2011. “The China plant is to serve the Asian market while the plants in Europe are for the rest of the world”, she added. Their Serafil fine sewing thread can be used for embroidery especially for small letterings or fine details.

Zipper specialist YKK’s slogan reads “Little parts, Big Difference” with zippers and fasteners. Mixed metal teeth of gold, silver, or copper; plastic teeth that looks like metal costing less and lighter than metal; nylon zipper electroplated with copper or other metallic; square teeth, aluminum teeth in rainbow colors were some of the new elements displayed. Its China business has 14 distribution points, a logistic centre and two factories with an R&D attached.